Jaime Cheryl enjoys a rich glass of Savignon Rosso.
CHEWING THE FAT: Jaime Cheryl, Sommelier
In this latest installment of CHEWING THE FAT, we sit down with Jaime Cheryl, sommelier at LES wine and tapas bar Blink (61 Ludlow St.) Cheryl’s leadership and vision has made Blink’s wine program one of the most admired in the city. His focus on small growth producers and unusual pairings has been integral for making Blink a universal hit among foodies and winos. NY Times recently awarded Blink a one star review.
When did you first take an interest in wine?
My parents always had a jug of homemade wine on the table. What a delight it was to sip on it when my parents had their back turned to watch the war on our black and white T.V. While most kids were making paper airplanes, I was flipping through Robert Parker’s classic, The Joy of Drinking and Cooking with Red, White, and Blush Wines: an introduction to the wines and agriculture of America, France and other countries, 2nd edition.
Tell us some of your favorite wine pairings.
The antiquated notion that white = fish, and red = meat is total B.S. (bullshit). At Blink, we pair our Macerated Sardine Dough with Gruyere foam ($26) with a bold red from Mexico City. And I wouldn’t drink anything but an acidic Savignon Blanc from Iraq with our Goat, Pork, and Spaghetti Fondue ($30 serves two).
What wine have you had recently that surprised you the most?
A few months ago I had a White Zinfandel from a very small producer, Domaine de Cigarette. Now, I like Bordeaux well enough, but this wine thrilled me. It was beady and graceful and frothed, yet structured and weak kneed, with all the aromatic allure of a chardonnay yet decidedly cabernet. I couldn’t remember the last time that a Bordeaux had excited me as much. My experience with this wine reminded me of long summer nights in France with my nephew Pete, who is a curious little fellow. I had a similar experience not so long afterwards with a Mayacocoka Oakland Valley cabernet sauvignon noir.
What are you drinking at home these days?
Sometimes just apple juice. But when I’m drinking wine, I usually enjoy the tart flavors of the obscure German varietal Pinasvaginus. It pairs well with cheese, anchovies, coffee, and Indian food.
Any childhood holiday foods you remember fondly, but don’t really eat anymore?
Waffles. I can’t eat them anymore because of my egg, flour, and gluten allergies.
How has the Lower East Side changed in the past 15 years or so?
I haven’t noticed any real changes. There are more tapas bars, but that’s a good thing.
